Spice & Tea Country
Choosing a homestay in spice country, from Kumily to the estates
Town, estate or forest edge: how to pick a homestay around Thekkady, Kumily and Vandanmedu, what to ask before you pay, and how to be a good guest.
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Field writer
Biju spent his childhood between Kumily and the cardamom estates further up the ridge. He writes about spice and tea country, hill towns, food and the people who live at the forest edge.
Town, estate or forest edge: how to pick a homestay around Thekkady, Kumily and Vandanmedu, what to ask before you pay, and how to be a good guest.
How small cardamom grows under shade trees, why pepper climbs them, where tea takes over, and what to look for and ask on a plantation walk around Kumily.
Why the Periyar lake shore is such a good place to see Asian elephants, how to read a herd's body language, and how people at the forest edge live beside them.